Cancun Blog – May 2018

Mrs K is on a fitness crusade. She has a special occasion to look good for.  I have been very supportive which of course has been a key driver of her fantastic results. The downside is that Sian and I have had to listen to a blow by blow account of the whole process. But if you can't beat them you have to join them. Which is why on our first morning in our idyllic location in Cancun I join Mrs K in the gym in an effort to reverse the gradual trend of the last few months. It's a very special occasion for me too.  I have promised myself I will run 5km each morning we are here. A total of 50km. That might at least offset the damage that sitting by the pool for 10 days might do.  Unfortunately I didn't get off to a good start on the first night at Chili’s where I enjoyed fried chicken and chips and followed it up with a creamy shake from Starbucks.  Well I am on holiday after all!

I had said to myself that I wouldn't write a blog this time.  But telling you all about my fitness target might help me complete it. Maybe.  Part of the thinking not to write is that we are in Cancun at the same hotel that we came to in Easter 2011.  We must have really enjoyed it last time but when I read back the blog from 7 years ago I was reminded that we had 3 kids with us, all of whom were sick at various times and required trips to the local doctor. That was expensive.  I also remember that Mrs K got a sparkly new watch which was also expensive but on a different scale.  There will be no sparkly gifts on this trip despite the fact we will be celebrating our 33rd anniversary.

We are picked up at the airport by Hector. I have booked a private car to avoid the hotel bus figuring that after a 10 hour flight we won't be up for idle chit-chat with other guests. When I see the vehicle, for a split second I think they are putting us on the bus but then I remember that Mexico do cars like Americans - big.

Between the plane and our room we are asked how long our flight was about 5 times.  Surely they must get loads of visitors from the UK? But looking round the hotel, there are very few. Mostly Americans and mostly 50+ I would say. They all sit in huddles at the pool, discussing their 401k’s and their health care plans.  We English prefer to talk about the weather. I can report it is about 28-30 degrees and forecast to stay there for the duration.

The hotel was undergoing an expansion last time we were here.  That is obviously now all finished. Pretty much every room has a sea view but some better than others. Jorges on the front desk puts us in a block closest to the sea which sounds great but when we get to it we realise it is on the ground floor with a hot tub right outside our window. I would be able to wave to bathers from the shower. So Mrs K gets on the phone and with the help of our bell boy Oscar we select an alternative room. Oscar knows the hotel intimately and the first alternative is rejected. The sea view is not the best. Eventually we are following Oscar back across the vast hotel complex to our new room.  I am assured that wifi is good everywhere so that is not a consideration. Next most important consideration for Mrs K is closeness to the gym.

We pay a visit to the concierge where Alfonso gives us the treatment with his highlighter pen, marking up the must do things in bright green.  We did all the tourist things last time so we are just looking to do a couple of trips this time.  Alfonso is very good and describes a visit to an underground river as being an awesome experience (looks to the ceiling and hands waving in the air).  We might give it a try.  I also want to drive down the coast – something we didn’t do last time.

Mrs K found a nice sounding restaurant on TripAdvisor.  Alfonso had never heard of it and nor had Oscar, our man on the front door.  That should have been a warning sign, especially when our taxi didn’t know it either and dropped us at the wrong shopping plaza.  We had a short walk only to find a quiet restaurant next to a noisy bar.  There was 1 other table occupied and the staff outnumbered the customers for the whole evening.  We were greeted by the waiter, the head waiter and the general manager and watched like hawks for the whole evening.  I say evening but our 2 courses came out so fast we were out of there in not much more than an hour.  Why is it in this part of the world they insist on taking plates away as soon as the last mouthful is taken, irrespective of whether other people are still eating?  The food was good but they were trying just a little bit too hard. We were asked if we were enjoying our drinks and food about 5 times.  Mrs K chickened out telling them anything negative on the feedback form.  Next time we will take a recommendation from Alfonso.

On Friday we made a trip to the supermarket.  Back in 2011, that would have meant a trip into the town by taxi but there are now a couple of quite good supermarkets on the strip.  We take the short taxi ride to the Selecto supermarket where we are given a warm welcome at the door but then we realise the guy is selling timeshare presentations.  This supermarket is on 2 levels with travelators between so you can take your trolley to the next level.  Unfortunately the walkway has stopped and it is one of those that grabs the wheels and stops the trolley from rolling down.  There is no other solution but to drag our trolley up.  About half way up something gives and the contents of our trolley fall out and start rolling down the escalator.  My bottle of beer survives the journey down to the bottom where someone catches it.  We get everything back in the trolley and carry it to the top.  You don’t have these problems at Sainsburys.

On Saturday night we decided to go to one of the recommended restaurants called the Rosanegro.  It is a fairly new place but Marguerita, our Westin lady, said it is her favourite and we went online and it looked good.  It is just along the strip so we take a taxi for our 6.45pm reservation which will mean we are there to see the sunset.  The restaurant is on the lagoon side of the strip facing west.  Everyone in the hotel looks about 30 years younger than the guests at the hotel – it is a place to be seen.  We are shown to our table outside overlooking the lagoon and it’s not long before a huge G&T arrives at our table.  Our arrival doesn’t raise as much attention as the large, noisy and wealthy looking family who arrive at the restaurant by boat.   “Get those children under control!” says Mrs K as they run around the restaurant .  Cancun restaurants are expensive.  I like the sound of the surf ‘n’ turf described by one of the waiters – but then I calculate that it costs about £120.  We opt for more modest courses but they are spectacular  - see the video.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hO9OxfNCQXv0fi5A2

Afterwards I offer Mrs K a trip to her luxury shopping mall but she is too full and in need of a lie down so we head back to the apartment.  We are in bed by 9pm.

Next morning it is a real effort for me to get to the gym before 8am.  I have done 3 x 5km runs on the 3 previous mornings, each day a bigger struggle, but the running machines are all taken so I opt for a 18km cycle ride instead.  Mrs K is happy doing her gym routine as set out in videos by her personal trainer.  The reward is a 80 minute massage and time on the sunbed to finish book no.2

Part 2

This morning (Tuesday) we were picked up at 7.20am. No morning gym today for the first time since we arrived and no 5km for me. Our minibus is a real bone shaker but fortunately we only pick up 2 more guests en route. Our destination is Rio Secreto which is a place where you can explore the underground rivers that were discovered here in the Yucatan peninsula of Mexico only in 2006. We are told by Alfonso the hotel concierge that the system of underground rivers here is vast and unmatched anywhere else in the world. I think the word ‘period’ was added at the end of his statement. I am doubting that can be true but anyway it sounds like we need to go see.

It is a drive of an hour or so down the coast just past Playa del Carmen (if you know the area). Mrs K is feeling a bit apprehensive about the whole thing. Having to buy water shoes just raised the apprehension a bit more. When we arrive we are allocated a guide for the day – Michael, pronounced Mik-ay-el. We get the safety briefing. Tension notches even higher. “OK, everyone OK with riding a bike to the first activity?” One person gingerly raises her hand and says no – Mrs K. She can ride a bike but only while putting her own life and that of other cyclists in jeopardy. It later transpired that another member of our group of 8 was also not able to ride a bike but was too embarrassed to admit it. OK no problem, Michael will arrange separate transport.

We are with a couple from Connecticut (Doug and his wife Cheryl), 2 lads from Minnesota (Eric and Scott, they said they were cousins) and 2 young girls, also Americans we think, but they spoke fluent Spanish. Later we learn that this holiday is the first time the cousins have ever seen the ocean – they are both 31 years old. This is our crew. One of the young girls had twisted her ankle the day before and was hobbling around. The lady from Connecticut said she had a back problem. There are several routes that could be taken but I think Michael quickly realised we needed the beginner’s route. He later told us there was a weight limit for the hardest route – no one asked what that limit was.

We start off easy with a hike across the rainforest to our first cave which is dry. Michael describes it as a poisonous rainforest – “don’t hug any trees”. After that we are kitted out with helmets and life-jackets and wet suits to those that wanted one (I was the only wuss). We are now ready for the underground cave.

While I am writing this, the fire brigade turn up at our hotel room. What’s going on? Mrs K is cooking steak and she didn’t put the extractor on. The man has a quick look and leaves with his extinguisher looking a bit disappointed. I am used to smoke alarms going off at home all the time.

So we descend steps into the caves and soon are wading through dark tunnels with a few feet of water looking at amazing rock formations. We have about 75 feet of limestone between us and the rainforest above. Tree roots have forced their way into the caves in search of water “they keep going until they find it”. It is unbelievable that this was all only discovered 12 years ago. Michael is telling us how the various rocks are formed – stalagmites and stalactites. We can actually see it in motion as small droplets form at the bottom of stalactites and occasionally drip down. At one point we stop and we all turn off our torches. It is pitch black . I am waving my hand in front of my face and I can see nothing. Apparently it is not the sort of darkness that your eyes get accustomed to either – there is zero light. We proceed through many tunnels and the water gets deeper. But progress is slow. The rocks are sharp underneath and you have to be careful – a few of us are already nursing cuts and grazes.

Maybe the best part was the swim for the exit through a tunnel with only a couple of feet of air. The hard hat comes in handy. We emerge from the coolness of the tunnels back into the humid rainforest.

Next is the cycle ride over to the Rappel. We have no idea what that is – until we arrive at the hole. It is abseiling. Cheryl took the ‘limo’ with Mrs K and decides she is going to opt out of the abseiling too. We are not sure whether it is a fear of heights or the worry about fitting into a harness. Mrs K is very nervous too. We were not told about this bit (or the cycling) by the concierge. We are kitted up with harnesses and gloves. Mrs K hopes they are wet from water and not sweat. The two girls go first without any trouble. Basically, you control your descent simply with one hand on the rope. As you release the pressure you start to drop. Pretty simple. “Righty tighty, lefty loosey” says the rappel man, Danny. Trouble is Mrs K doesn’t know her right from her left at the best of times. Now she is over the hole and has a bit of a wobble. I tell Mrs K she can do it. Tears start to come. She gets extra help from Danny who is talking her through every move and before long she disappears. “There you go, a Mayan Princess”. At this point I am starting to worry what this part of the adventure is going to ‘cost’ me. I go next, ready to take the heat down below. He decent is only 15m but into the darkness of a sinkhole with about 3 feet of water in it. Michael is down there tending the rope and I find a Mrs K who is feeling pretty proud of herself. Last to come down is big man Doug. He comes down quite fast but then starts shouting that his hand is burning on the rope. He goes into a bit of spin and loses grip but Michael is there on the safety rope and stops him before the bottom. Doug shows me his hand. I can’t see a burn but his hand is shaking. That was an experience.

These are pictures I never thought I would see!

With all the caving experiences done we are plied with alcohol before we go to look at the photos. Incredibly the photographer was with us all the way, carrying a big Nikon through all the tunnels. I have no idea how he kept it dry.

We enjoy a pleasant lunch with our fellow adventurers and pick up some tips about other sights to see along the coast. There is a hold up for our departure because another group have taken a long time to emerge from the tunnels. It is very easy to get lost down there, even for the guides. They are a few minutes from sending search teams down to look for them. All very worrying, except for me as I doze in a hammock in the sun.

Then it is the long ride back, packed into a minibus. Mrs K is wedged between Cheryl and Scott (the bigger cousin) in the back row. We are the last stop. But an amazing experience.

Part 3

It is a jungle out there. I'm not talking about the poisonous rainforest. It's territory grab around the pool. Every day we have had to sit way back from the pool because we have had our morning routine of gym and breakfast in the room. By the time we arrive the premium spots have gone. On Friday morning, our last full day, I volunteer to skip the gym to secure our beds. Take one for the team! Well it is our anniversary. The least I can do. I also have a errand to run in reception but more on that later.

I get down to the pool by 7.45am. Shame on me for being such a sloth. Every single bed is either occupied or claimed. The hotel has a system whereby if you leave your bed unattended for 45 minutes your towel and belongings will be taken to lost property. Towels are like a currency here. You are given 4 towel cards which can swap for towels. At the end of your stay you have to give the cards back .... or pay for the towels. I run my errand to reception and am gone for 10 minutes. When I get back there is a notice on my bed saying I left it unattended.  These guys are playing hardball. But what annoys me is that the beds next to the pool with just a beach bag on them are untouched. They also have 3 towels each, not the standard 2.  Much later on we see the occupants arrive and are greeted like long lost friends by the towel attendant and one of the waiters. Mrs K points out the answer to this mystery. Big tips.  Money makes the world go round.  I am incensed. I nearly take possession of a bed with just towels but I am relieved I didn't when a guy turns up with dark glasses and a guide dog.

Yesterday we had a day out. We hired a car and left by 7am to beat the traffic.  Within a few minutes we are in a torrential rainstorm and we see several accidents within a few miles where cars have presumably aqua-planed off the road. This is not a huge surprise given that despite a meaningful police presence on the highway most people seem to ignore the speed limits and make up their own rules for over and under taking. Don't leave a gap because someone will fill it.  The speed limit varies between 80-100kph. Most cruise along at 120kph, so we go with the flow.

We are heading to Coba which has the tallest temple in the peninsula and the last one you can actually climb. It is a 2.5 hour drive in 35C heat.  It is a drive down the coast and then about an hour into the rainforest. When we finally arrive, we opt to hire an official guide which is expensive but well worth it. Our man is Otto.  He is Mayan but not just that.  He is pure Mayan and one of the last 6000 Mayan speakers. Not sure if that would be politically correct in the UK but my PC radar doesn't work that well because I am 55.

Otto speaks very good English. He shows us the ruins which were only uncovered 40 years ago, having been covered by the rainforest for a thousand years.  We see one of the ball courts where they play a ritual game, a bit like basketball except you can only touch the ball with elbows, knees and hips. This is because the roundness of the ball is sacred - like the sun and moon.  The game is over when the first goal is scored.  The most fascinating thing is that the winner or sometimes the winning captain has to make a sacrifice. It could be part of his ear, his finger or even his penis. What about the losing team?  Nothing. Just the shame and dishonour of losing.  Some football fans will know what that feels like.

We are used to seeing these ruins in their raw form but back then they were smoothed over with plaster and coloured red. Where did the red come from? Ladybirds. They needed a lot of them so they farmed them. No wonder we don’t have many left.

The site is spread out. You can hire a bicycle but Mrs K can't ride a bike very well so we grab a Mayan limo which is a tricycle with 2 seats . Our ‘driver’ takes us out to the huge temple which is 120 large steps to the top and is 42m high. The Mayans completed the building in seven 52 year cycles.  7 x 52 = 364. Plus the temple on top makes 365.  They took their time. But given that the structure is solid limestone and they carried every stone (no wheels were used out of respect to the sun god), it is no surprise.

Short video clip of the climb

https://youtu.be/f2iUfMSLuNY

We get to the top OK and enjoy the view across the rainforest.  Getting down is more tricky. One slip and there will be nothing to stop you.  The steps are deep and uneven.  I wonder how many tourists have been injured or have even died here.  A woman died in 2006 descending from Chichen Itza after which it was closed. But at least we have a rope to cling on to. It is rumoured that the temple here at Coba will be closed soon too. Not sure if that is to preserve tourists or the limestone. 

Otto tries to teach us the Mayan number system.  He keeps going up to 40. And there is test question at the end. Mrs K is straight in there with the correct answer. Well she is a Mayan princess after all.

On the road back to Tulum on the coast we pass a bit of road works. There is kind of a traffic flow system. Two guys with flags stand at each end but are waving them randomly. Most drivers take no notice and make their own way through the chaos.  There are loose stones everywhere and most keep their speed down except for the 4x4 Jeep behind us who speeds past us. A stone flies up and hits our windscreen leaving a 2 foot crack on the passenger side. Thanks.  That was my errand to reception this morning but luckily we had the full insurance.

From there we visit the Tulum temples which are the ones on the coast that you have probably seen in photos. But you can't go in these. They are protected. Mrs K likes the iguanas here. The place is crawling with them – err.. literally.

We retire to a nearby boutique hotel on the beach to have a late lunch and watch the ocean or is it the Caribbean Sea?  Who cares.

It is a long drive back via a charming fishing village called Puerto Morelles.  We have done a 400km round trip.  In one piece except for a badly cracked windscreen.

We are out tonight (Friday) for a special anniversary meal. We have used that one almost every night we have been here! Then we fly back tomorrow, arriving Sunday.

That is the plan but maybe I will stay here.……

Thanks for reading

Cheers

Jeff